Latvians have been invaded so often by their neighbours, it’s hardly surprising that the local cuisine is somewhat difficult to define. Latvia, until relatively recently, was a poor country of agricultural serfs living an almost subsistence life-style. Dried peas and bacon bits were almost an aspirational dish in a country were lots of calories were the way to help the locals through long hours of back-breaking work. Spices and flavourings were in short supply and few could afford such luxuries. Germany, Sweden and Russia, all countries that have occupied Latvia for many years, have been the major influences on Latvian cuisine.
But don’t be discouraged, there are Latvian dishes to be found, but you do have to seek them out. Piragi, small pies made of bacon and onion in a glazed pastry case, are very popular and inevitably are the source of a host of stories. ‘Jani’ is the celebration of the Summer Solstice, normally around 24th June. Guests bring Piragi to the Jani parties and songs are sung about the well prepared ones. Unfortunately, burning your buns can also attract the the more teasing attention of the singers! It’s also said that a girl eating Piragi straight from the oven will find a husband soon. Whether this has anything to do with the English slang phrase for pregnancy – a bun in the oven – is less than clear! Given the influences on Latvia, it’s hardly a surprise that Smorgasbord, sauerkraut and potato salad, known locally as ‘rasols’, feature strongly. The Latvian version of Smorgasbord is likely to include smoked salmon, poached salmon, sliced ham, pork hock, eel, fish in a tomato sauce and much more – but not Swedish style meatballs! Potato salad will almost certainly appear, as will sliced cucumber, tomato and rye bread.
The dishes will be decorated with green spring onions and sliced radishes. Cold soups are popular in summer. Beets make up the famous borscht while sorrel soup; and chilled soured cream soup, are favourites. On the hot soup front, they may not pass muster on a Latvian Smorgasbord, but meatballs do make it into a consomme soup called Frikadeu zupa. The most popular meat by far is pork with breaded pork chops, called karbonade, and galerts, or pork hocks in aspic, both favourites. Chicken and beef steak are ever more common, all served with salad – normally with a cream based dressing rather than mayonnaise – potato and bread. Rye is the bread of choice and can be light or dark in colour. Puddings feature cakes and fruit; chocolate is often used as a flavouring and Danish style pastries are seen everywhere. Few would claim that Latvian is one of the great cuisines of the world but it’s wholesome and reflects a turbulent, hard-working history. Seek it out on your visit to Riga and you won’t be disappointed.